Matchy, Matchy

First project for the Crazy Dog Lady Sewing Challenge is complete! When I heard about this challenge I knew I had to join in. After all, I'm already a crazy dog lady of 4 wonderful, rescued dogs! Anyone else interested in getting in on this awesome challenge has until March 15th to sew up your poopster-related item(s). 

Titan, Stretch, Digby, Larry

I must say that it's funny how all 3 of my Boston Terriers weigh almost the exact same, yet all of their sizes are different. Larry is short and stocky (and when he goes running by he looks like one of those little cartoon characters), Stretch is long and skinny (must be all the stretching he does...hence his name!) and Digby seems pretty normal. And let's not forget Titan the Rottweiler who thinks he's a Boston. He's very small for a Rottie, maybe due to how sick he was until we adopted him at 7 months old. Apparently his parents were very large. We love his size though!

Since all of our Bostons are different sizes, Mr. SmileDogstitches embroidered their names on each coat to keep me from going crazy trying to figure it out when it's time to go for a walk! Or camping. The little guys get so cold at night by the fire when we're camping.

Larry & Titan

I really can't trust Mr. SmileDogstitches to make sure my hair looks okay in pictures. I mean, what a mess! It's no secret that I have crazy hair but eeeek! Oh well, Larry and Titan look good so that's what matters (isn't it? ISN'T IT???). I tried to adjust the hoodie pattern before I cut my fabric this time. Last time it was sooooo big on me (I made the medium and I should have made the small this time). But that really didn't work out so well. It's still big and I also got some horizontal pooling at the back which makes me think I probably need a swayback adjustment in the future on things I make.

Matchy, Matchy!

When I made the bike one blogged about here, the coverstitch stitches pretty much disappeared into the fleece. This time that didn't happen. I suppose I should have changed out the thread. But I really didn't want to have to stop and re-thread my machine for this one. Call me lazy!

I accidentally purchased some super cute Boston/Frenchie (it's hard to tell...I think it's whichever one you want it to be!) fabric that I thought was fleece when I ordered it. Turns out it's flannel. I must have been so excited when I saw it and the price at under $3/yd. that I didn't read it properly! And I got A LOT of it! 

Boston Terrier? Frenchie? Frenchton?

I didn't think it would work great for the pattern I was originally using for all the dogs, but I think it will work well with the pattern I used for Larry and Titan in the end, without the sleeves on Larry's. Plus, I think I might like to make the short Carolyn Pajamas pajamas by Heather at Closet Case Files. Aren't these adorable?

Heather - closetcasefiles.com

I have one more thing planned for the Crazy Dog Lady Sewing Challenge (not the above pj's but...). We'll see if I can crank it out in time!

Til later,
Susan

A Shoe Patch Machine

One of the things I love about having an embroidery business is that I'm always surrounded by various machines, thread and fabric. It's really heaven for a seamstress! We have a lot of requests to sew patches onto hats, shirts, uniforms, etc. Trying to jam a hat into any of my flatbed machines or even a machine with a free arm just ends up smashing the hat and giving me fits. And stopping production on the embroidery machines to set them up to do that is really not good use of our time. So I traded one of my other industrial machines I wasn't really using for this one. It will do everything the traded one did and much more! Fixing chewed up heavy duty dog beds and easily sewing through dog collars is one example. Sewing patches on the Wyoming Army National Guard uniform arms today will be much easier!

It was interesting to see that these machines haven't changed much at all since the late 1800's/early 1900's. Just take a look at the picture below. I had actually seriously considered an old Singer from the early 1900's but since I made a trade I got a new one. BUT...that doesn't mean I won't still end up getting a vintage Singer with a treadle table if I find a good deal. It would look great in our studio and then the new one could go to a new home. I just love vintage machines!

Til later,
Susan

Bicycle Fleece Hoodie

Hello hello!

Well this took longer than it should have! I signed up for a Craftsy class on sewing with knits because I liked this hoodie. And I thought I could possibly learn a thing or two (I've actually signed up for a number of Craftsy classes). The class was pretty slow moving and I only made this first project. I'm not sure I'll do any more from it.

Apparently Mr. SmileDogstitches didn't notice I had two pieces of hair sticking out sideways when he took my pics. Well, you know what they say. Love is blind. HA! I must say I love this hoodie as much as I thought I would. It's super comfy. It has a little crisscross at the front neckline. I did take a picture of me with the hood on since you couldn't really see it from the back, but I look like a goof. So trust me when I say it's a hoodie. I made the medium but ended up taking in the side seams 3". The pattern is made to be more roomy than I wanted. I should have made a small. But I left the arms alone except for the underarm. I took that in about an inch. Must be my big guns requiring the larger arms. Yeah. I added 2 inches to the arm length because I hate it when my sleeves are too short. And I love longer sleeves. The first thing Mr. SmileDogstitches said was, "That's awesome (bless him). And sleeves just like you like them." After 22 years of marriage he knows what I like...and he knows what to say!

Jazz hands. Because they help show sleeve length.

On the hems I used my Juki industrial coverstitch. I wasn't going to use it because I have it threaded with white thread and, well it's a lot like threading an overlock and I really just wanted to finish and not have to re-thread it again just yet. But I haven't used it yet other than toying around with it so I really wanted to try it in real life. The thread kind of sinks on the front side of the fabric (I did two lines of stitching) so it didn't really matter that it was white. Here's the stitch on the wrong side of the fabric. It's nice and stretchy. 

The seams were done on my industrial Juki overlock, in bright colors like I always do, even though the instructor didn't finish her seams. 

I'm still having some machine issues which is part of the reason this took so long (yeah sure, blame the machine!). I'm getting a replacement machine from the company for the industrial straight stitch that has been giving me so many issues. In the meantime I ended up scoring an awesome, used Juki 5410 which is an industrial needle feed machine. I found it on Craigslist and it was in the same town I'm in. That never happens! And bonus...the woman I purchased it from teaches all sorts of sewing related classes including fitting and pattern drafting. I do want to make my own cycling jerseys, so I'll probably be paying her a visit. She even showed me how to sew knits on the Juki straight stitch needle feed (she sewed lots of lycra stuff on it for a living for a number of years so she's an expert). But it's so extremely dry here that I couldn't get it to sew the fleece that way without skipping lots of stitches even though it did other knits perfectly every time. I even tried a little oil on top of the bobbin case and along the thread itself up top. It didn't work. I ended up having to use a Singer that I have (for the zig zag and buttonholes) and doing a zig zag stitch. I think I might make one more and just use my overlock and my coverstitch machines. Even when I'm having issues, I still love all of my machines (except the one that's getting replaced!). 

We had such nice weather here last week that I got outside and rode 3 times...in January! The close up picture of my bike looked cooler on my phone while I was out riding, mostly because I can't see small things without my reading glasses. I was pretty sure I'd come home and need to enter it in some sort of photography contest. And I'd win. Nope. 

I did run into my new friend Ron on my Thursday ride and we rode back in together. You might remember he's 75 years old and he's amazing. I met him out on the road. He's training for his first of four cycling tours this year. The first one is in March and it's 6 days of riding, 360 miles! Once again I tried to take our picture but I suck at selfies! So here's Ron. I like to share because he's such an inspiration!

Off to my next project!

Til later,
Susan

My Gingers are Finished!

Yes, you heard that right. Finished I say! My Gingers took me forever. And ever. Most of it had to do with machine issues and getting bogged down with our embroidery business during the holidays. Oh, and I think I ripped out every single seam in these jeans throughout the process, at least once if not more! But I love these jeans!

I freakin' made these jeans! Stretch is doing a happy dance!

I've never made fitted pants before. I did have someone who kindly offered to help me sew a "pantsuit-ish-thing" years ago but the pants were verrrrrrry loose and she went through everything so fast. Honestly I don't remember a thing other than feeling very rushed. No fun!

Brrrr...good thing I have extra fabric at the knees to keep me warm!

For my Gingers, I cut out one size but really needed a smaller size for my waist and apparently my legs. I wasn't sure how to grade the pattern and make it work. So I didn't. I hemmed and hawed over that issue for 2 weeks before cutting. Finally I just cut right into my fabric. Lesson learned! I had to do so many alterations on my fabric since I only fit them for my hips. I mean, it's not like I have the biggest hips in the world (except for right now because man oh man did I overeat during the holidays...why can't they coincide with cycling season??!!). I should have also cut a smaller size in the legs because they were HUMONGOUS! I still have a bit of "gappy knee" and gaping at the waist, which I thought I had taken care of, but nope. I was afraid I was over fitting. I think next time I'll try a couple sizes smaller to start with. 

I'm moving my locks out of the way so you can see my tush because my hair's that long. 

I'm not sure what my malfunction was, but for the LIFE of me, I couldn't grasp the final step of the waistband. No matter what I tried and how I configured my fabric, it didn't look like Heather's did in the pictures on the sewalong (which was great!). I finally found this this video online and voila! I'm not sure it was the same process but it worked. I also couldn't get my button or rivets to stay on. I kept smashing the tip. I'm pretty sure it's because I don't know my own strength since I lifted weights this morning. Yup. I finally had to have Mr. SmileDogstitches do it. On the first try. Ugh! 

I love using fun colors on my overlock! Happiness is an inside job!

As for my machine issues, I might have mentioned before that I purchased a used Juki overlock machine (which I LOVE...so much quieter than my Pfaff 4852 was and than my little Brother is) and although it was supposed to be in great working order, it was missing a part. That caused one of the upper needle threads to continually break. Frustrating! But I didn't know the missing part was the culprit because the part was so tiny. So I fiddled and fiddled and fiddled with the tension. All of our cleaning rags now have overlocked edges. So pretty. After I figured out a part was missing they sent the wrong part. But it's working like a champ now. I also sort of recently got an industrial straight stitch machine. It's brand new but leaks oil like mad. Trying to figure that out (with the place we got it from) and get it to stop has been a nightmare. Although it has a servo motor it won't sew very slow and it should. And the tension is super super duper fussy. Originally I was going to do all the topstitching on that one but I just couldn't do it that fast. The company is replacing that machine so hopefully in the next month or so those issues will be gone. They are in LA and I am in Wyoming so it has been a logistical challenge. 

So there you have it. A marathon post to go with my marathon Gingers. Mid-process I swore I'd never make pants, pj's or anything else with 2 legs again, let alone jeans. But now...I can't wait to make them in various prints and colors! It was all worth it in the end!

Til later,

Susan

Merry Christmas Sewing

Hello! I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas and is enjoying some Merry Christmas long weekend sewing! I got to work on my Gingers yesterday and on Christmas Eve. I have the zip in. But I broke a needle yesterday on my industrial straight stitch and although I found all the pieces my stitches were a mess after that. I'm still working on it. Sheesh! After finally getting my Juki industrial overlock working (it was used and missing a part so it kept breaking thread), now this. One step forward, two steps back. Ha! I hope I didn't mess up the timing somehow by breaking a needle. I don't even know how I'd know? But still, I'm getting to sew, sort of!

Here are two of my Boston Terriers in a very happy Christmas picture from a couple of years ago. I especially like the look on Larry's face (he's on the right)!

Merry Christmas weekend everyone! 

Susan

Not Me-Made But Still A Score!

It may seem like I've quit sewing since I've been away from my blog for so long. But oh no! First of all our embroidery business has still been crazy busy with Christmas right around the corner and we've been working tons. I'd love to be amazed at all the people who wait until the last minute to decide they would like something embroidered for Christmas. But I can't because that's soooo something I would do! One year right after Mr. SmileDogstitches and I were first married, we did all of our Christmas shopping on Christmas Eve! No kidding. These people are still a week out, so really I guess they're early shoppers! Nonetheless, we have been quite busy trying to squeeze in all the special orders with our regular business.

Also, my Gingers. Ah...let me just say that I probably won't attempt to make pants again without doing all of the measuring ON the pattern before I cut my fabric and baste my pieces together. You see, in the past when I would sew (no pants!), I would sew something together and if it didn't fit I would just take in the sides until it did. You can only imagine how beautifully everything fit. I think the only proper fitting I ever did was in an armscye that threatened to slice my arm off slowly throughout the day. But now that I'm "taking it up a notch" I want to do it right, short of making muslins (although I've learned to never say never). So after basting my Gingers and finding that the legs were huge and the waist a bit too big, I'm doing more work on them. I have recut the waist and back yolk pieces and taken in the legs quite a bit. We'll see where I end up!

Okay, so every now and then I like to go thrifting. In fact, I have a hard time buying retail these days. Not too long ago I scored this felted wool Gap jacket at Goodwill for $4.50! I thought it would be great to embroider my business logo on (which oddly enough looks almost exactly like my blog logo...how'd that happen?!). 

We also did the back. I didn't know Mr. SmileDogstitches was going to put the phone number on it. At first I thought wow, weird. "So hey, call me, k?" But it is my business number, not my personal number and it's much easier to jot that down than a website address. We only have one area code in our entire state so it's only 7 quick numbers. :) 

So back to finishing my Gingers. I was hoping to be finished by Thanksgiving. I wonder if I'll be finished by Christmas! New Year's? I have lots of other things I want to sew, especially when I visit everyone's blogs! But these are a great learning experience for me.

I hope you're all ready for Christmas! Hard to believe it's less than a week away!

Til later,

Susan

Vintage Simplicity Pattern Video & Ginger Jeans Progress

After hemming and hawing and reading everything I could get my hands on about fit and grading, etc., etc., I finally cut out my Ginger jeans. I'm a size smaller in my waist than in my hips, but not being a pants expert, I didn't know how/where to grade. I was terrified I would ruin these jeans! I'm someone who likes to have all of the information before I jump in. I kind of wish I were more a fly by the seat of my pants kinda gal. But nope. I'm a planner. My in-laws will call at 7am on a Saturday morning with, "Let's go to breakfast. Meet you there in 40 minutes." That just sends me into a frenzy although since they've moved here I'm getting more used to it. Luckily I'm a super early riser! Anyway...after all that research what did I do? Cut the size for my hips anyway! I'm making the lower rise ones so maybe I won't have to make as many adjustments. Maybe. I've also never cut without pinning before. Did I overdo with the weights? :)

I've also had a few bumps in the road. My industrial Juki overlock kept breaking one of the needle threads. Over and over. I don't know if you've ever been blessed with the oodles of information in an industrial machine's manual but yikes! Not so helpful, which thankfully I knew going in. Not that it made it any easier! After lots of Googling (what did we do before the internet?) and trying to look at the pics in my manual, the mechanically-inclined Mr. SmileDogstitches and I (not so mechanically inclined) discovered mine is missing a piece. It's used but soooooo much quieter than any of my home overlocks have ever been...thank you Servo motor! After a bazillion calls back and forth with the place we got it from, which is in Los Angeles, the part finally arrived yesterday. Fingers crossed! Of course I could use my "Little Brother" but... 

Then as I was getting ready to fuse my interfacing I DROPPED my gravity feed iron on right on this big metal piece of something that goes on one of our industrial embroidery machines and was left behind in our move out to our studio. Obviously not an important working piece! There's nothing else on the floor in my entire sewing room (which I just moved back into) except that and a small plastic trash can. My iron got some sort of grease on it and a NICK on the edge which I (meaning Mr. SmileDogstitches) will need to grind smooth. I tried to clean it like I have before with a Bounce sheet and that made it worse. Hello Google. I used Magic Erasers. They got the grease spot and almost got all the gunk off from the Bounce sheet that was supposed to clean it. Then I got talked into some jean needles at a newer, local sewing machine repair shop and the heads were too large to fit into my industrial. And I don't give up easily! "Must be me," I thought. But they do fit in my Singer Slant-O-Matic. And I got a slew of needles with my machine so I really am covered. I just thought since I got some for my Singer I might as well try!

I was hoping/planning to have my jeans finished by Thanksgiving so I could wear them and my in-laws would oooooh and awwww over what miraculous work I do. Yeah well. Soon!

We also got in 50 more Air Force chef coats that needed to be embroidered by today so the military kitchen staff and base Colonels could serve the military personnel at our local base for Thanksgiving tomorrow. So although that's great for business, that rush job has taken up some of my planned sewing time.

In the meantime I leave you with this great vintage 1948 Simplicity Pattern for Smartness video that I saw over on http://www.coletterie.com/. I love it!

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone in the US!

Til later,

Susan